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Home Buying Articles and Advice

Table of Contents

WHEN IS AN OFFER A CONTRACT?

Environmental Hazards

EPA HOT LINE

Legal Line...Q & A on legal real estate topics

Capitol Gains New Law

Guide to Who Pays For What...What the Buyer and Seller Pay....

New Home Inspection Laws

Spotting Deals in Ads

The Real Estate Library Link

Mistakes Buyers Make

Retirement Community Tips

FHA APPROVED CONDOS IN METROWEST

Repair & Home Improvement Links

Is there a housing bubble?

Homework Saves Headaches in New Construction

Community Links

Glossary of Home Inspection Terms

Choosing a Real Estate Agent

Other Helpful Links

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How Can I improve my loan approval chances? Reprinted from Inman News, Tom Kelly
When it comes to mortgage lending, strength is not necessarily in numbers. Bringing more bodies to the deal will not instantly enhance your chances of obtaining a home loan. Although many states offer first-time homebuyer assistance and lenders are willing to stretch on low-down payment loans for customers with strong employment credentials, credit repair and a little additional savings can work wonders. The key place hopeful homebuyers with awful credit often error is recruiting an upstanding person with flawless credit to cosign your loan.

If you are the primary borrower and owner-occupant, take some time to perform genuine damage control on your credit before you lure any partners or attempt to securing financing. Maybe the biggest problem is a credit report that's out of date or incorrect. It's not a bad idea to check your credit every few years. If you are planning to buy a home in the next six months, do it now. There's a difference between a credit agency and a credit bureau. Bureaus are huge companies that collect data from banks, court records, department stores, etc. Agencies typically research what is in the bureaus and report the findings to the client.

If an incorrect item appears on a credit report, it's up to the consumer to see that it is corrected. For example, if a courthouse clerk inadvertently punched a summary judgment onto your record, it's your responsibility to see that it is corrected. Merely telling the agency is not enough; you should submit the explanation, or proof, in writing to the bureau. If you finally have your credit looking better and still need an additional push, consider asking the seller to consider "seller financing" or "carrying the paper'" on the house. While most sellers prefer cash, some do not necessarily want to be cashed out. Sellers check credit, but not to the extent that banks do. Typically, a seller will ask to see your tax statements. It's often up to the buyer to start the discussions that result in seller financing. Sellers who need monthly income, perhaps a retiree, sometimes will consider helping to finance the house loan.

Young families who are moving up need a lot of cash and are not good candidates for seller financing, but it never hurts to ask. In addition, buyers and sellers also can save some closing fees. The buyer usually gets an interest rate from the seller that is slightly below the market rate. Be as impressive as you can to a seller. It just might get you in the door. Here are some other possibilities: Offer a lease-option -You pay a small payment up front, usually non-refundable, to the seller for the option to buy the home on a specific date for a specific price. This method can be viewed as renting with a huge first and last month's rent and a non-refundable damage deposit. It's a benefit to the buyer because it gives him time (typically a year or two) to improve his job history or clear up credit questions. The method benefits the seller because the option money is not taxed to the seller until either the option is exercised or it expires. In the interim, the seller can depreciate the house.

Parents as partners - The method is popular with parents who want to help their children find an alternative to college dormitory living. By taking an ownership share, the parents get some tax benefits by renting their share of the house to their children. Because both are co-owners, both parties share in resale profits and the children establish credit. Keep the seller on the title - You move in, pay as much down as you can, but keep the seller as co-owner to help qualify for a mortgage. Set up an agreement that gives you title on a specific date after you've paid off the seller or refinanced the deal with better credit.

Search for an assumable loan – Some Federal Housing Authority and Veterans Administration loans are easily assumable. However, if the seller is to be released of liability on the loan, then a complete loan application with credit check is required. Many homes now have existing adjustable-rate mortgages that are assumable. Typically, lenders are not as tough on assumption qualifications as they are when originating a new loan.


When is the best time to sell your house?

In addition to supply and demand, and other economic factors, the time of year you choose to sell can make a difference both in the amount of time it takes you to sell your home and in the ultimate selling price. Weather conditions are less of a consideration in some states than in other parts of the country. Although winter is seen as a slower time, there are more serious buyers in the marketplace. That can be the silver lining in a winter market.

But generally the real estate market picks up as early as February, with the strongest selling season usually lasting through May and June. With the onset of summer, the market slows. July is often the slowest month for real estate sales due to a strong spring market putting possible upward pressure on interest rates. Also, many prospective home buyers take vacations during mid-summer.


What steps should a person take to when preparing a house to sell?

Making your home look as nice as possible may seem obvious. Apparently, it's not, because many sellers don't do much beyond vacuuming the living room rug and maybe cleaning the ring off the bathtub, says George Devine, in "For Sale by Owner," Nolo Press, Berkeley, CA, 1993.

Short of spending a lot of money, there are several steps people can take to make their home show better:

    • Sweep the sidewalk, mow the lawn, prune the bushes, weed the garden and clean debris from the yard.
    • Clean the windows (both inside and out) and make sure the paint is not chipped or flaking.
    • Be sure that the doorbell works.
    • Clean and make attractive all rooms, furnishings, floors, walls and ceilings. It's especially important that the bathroom and kitchen are spotless.
    • Organize closets.
    • Make sure the basic appliances and fixtures work. Get rid of leaky faucets and frayed cords.
    • Make sure the house smells good: from an apple pie, cookies baking or spaghetti sauce simmering on the stove.
    • Hide the kitty litter.
    • Put vases of fresh flowers throughout the house.
    • Pleasant background music is a nice touch.
     

    Home Sellers Pay Less in Capital Gains

    The federal budget passed by Congress and signed by President Clinton dramatically alters the tax treatment on the gain realized on the sale of a primary residence.

    Under the old rules, the only way for a home sellers to avoid paying taxes on any profit they realized was to purchase another home of equal or greater value to the one they were selling. And actually, they weren't avoiding paying the tax on gain, they were only deferring it by rolling the gain over into the new house. If they didn't buy a new house or didn't buy within 2 years of selling the old house, they had to pay a tax on the gain. Sellers 55 years and older could permanently exclude up to $125,000 of the gain but they could only do this once in their lifetime.

    The new change does away with all of that. Hooray! Now all homeowners filing a joint return regardless of age can exclude up to $500,000 of their home sale gain and single filers can exclude up to $250,000. You don't have to buy a larger house or buy something within 2 years. To qualify for the maximum benefit, the property must be your primary residence and you must have occupied it for at least 2 out of the 5 years immediately preceding the sale. So that means you will be able to take advantage of the exclusion as often as every 2 years.

    And there's more. If you still face a tax liability after the $500,000 exclusion ($250,000 for singles) you get another tax break because the maximum rate at which capital gains are taxed has dropped from 28% to 20% and staring in 2001 the rate will drop to 18% for assets held at least 5 years.

    These rules went into effect retroactively to May 7, 1997. If you sold you home after that time you can take advantage of the new law!

    Try these great links to check out Boston's Metrowest communities!

    Welcome to Massachusetts

    Case Schiller Weiss, Inc.

    The Appraisal Institute

     

    Guide to Who Pays For What


    The Seller usually pays for:

     

    Spotting Deals in Ads

    As you read ads for "dramatic new custom homes" , "a perfect marriage of land and house" and "for the choosy family", you'll also find ads for homes that don't quite measure up to such glowing accolades. These are homes that might sell for less because they need cleaning, decorating, repairs or are for sale by anxious sellers. These are not considered "handyman specials". They are decent homes that are not brought up to the 90"s in decors or systems. They're homes that need a little TLC or sweat equity. In other words, you need to rent the wallpaper steamer and strip the walls, paint, wax and varnish and clean, clean, clean. These homes are worth a look if you want to get more bang for your buck!

    Carefully read the Real Estate Ads. Check out key phrases like, "needs work", "bring all offers", "old world charm". Some ads will simply try to present the property in the most positive way yet hint at work that needs to be done.

    Real Estate Ads are designed to make the phone ring and to present the homes in the best possible light. With some practice, you will be able to spot the homes that are good values. Here are some translations of inventive Real Estate Ads.

    When the Ad says: The Ad means this:
    Comfortable as an old shoe Older home, probably large and needs some decorating
    Near shopping and public transportation Could be on or near a busy street
    Make this your dream home Could need decorating or improvements like new baths
    A diamond in the rough When the property is run down and so is the price! A bargain hunters delight.
    Differently modern Unique home, probably added on to or custom built. Not for everyone.

    Homework Saves Headaches in New Construction

    Here's a list of things to do before, during and after you make a decision to buy new construction.

    • Do research on your own at first, driving by certain areas.
    • Ask questions about what's included and what's standard.
    • Visit Model Homes in the towns you like.
    • Get upgrade prices upfront.
    • Check out the Builders reputation.
    • Ask to see warranties.
    • Find out if the Builder delivers the home on time.
    • Talk to satisfied or unsatisfied buyers. Keep an open mind.
    • Try to get the home inspected by a qualified home inspector.
    • Check out the immediate neighborhood, abutters, etc
    • Consider asking for a radon inspection before you move in.
    • Try to view recently built homes of similar design to get a better idea of space.
    • Get a lawyer to review your purchase & sales agreement.
    • It is helpful to have one Realtor who knows the area and acts as a Buyer Agent to guide you.
    • Visit the suppliers to get an idea of the standard and upgraded carpet, tile, kitchen cabinets, etc.
    • Find out how much most people spend in upgrades. You may be able to work that into the total price.
    • Retain a sense of humor, be methodical and plan on delays.
     

    Stigmatized Property Law Update

    The following is a summary from the Massachusetts Association of Realtors recent update.

    "A question that has troubled Realtors for many years is the disclosure responsibilities of real estate licensees when it comes to tragic events such as suicides or homicides which may have occurred at a particular listing. Due to the passage of new legislation effective 11/9/98 in Massachusetts, the answer to these types of questions is now clear- absent a specific inquiry about the incident by the prospective purchaser, there is no duty for the broker to either investigate or affirmatively disclose murders, suicides, allegations of ghosts or other potential stigmas. However, the licensee must answer any question posed by the prospective buyer to the best of their knowledge."

     

    FHA APPROVED CONDOS IN METROWEST


     

    SUMMARY NEW HOME INSPECTION LAW.....in effect as of March 1, 2001


     

    Glossary of Home Inspection Terms

    A

    AMPERE (AMP):
    A unit measure of electricity.
    APERATURE:
    The opening in pipes.
    ASBESTOS:
    A naturally occurring mineral fiber sometimes found in older homes. It is hazardous to health when a possibility exists of exposure to inhalable fibers. Homeowners should be alert for friable asbestos and always seek professional advice in dealing with it.
    AWNING WINDOWS
    A window with hinges at the top allowing it to open out and up.

    B

    BASEBOARD:
    Usually wood or vinyl installed around the perimeter of a room to cover the space where the wall and floor meet.
    BASEBOARD HEAT:
    A heating system with the heating unit located along the perimeter of the wall where the baseboard would be. It can be either an electric or hot water system.
    BREAKER BOX:
    A metal box that contains circuit breakers or fuses that control the electrical current in the home.
    BUILDING CODE:
    Minimum local or state regulations established to protect public health and safety. They apply to building design, construction, rehabilitation, repair, materials, occupancy and use.
    BUCKLING:
    The bending of a building material as a result of wear and tear or contact with a substance such as water.

    C

    CASEMENT WINDOWS:
    A side­hinged window that opens on hinges secured to the side of the window frame.
    CAULKING:
    Material used to fill joints that may exist between floors and fixtures; around windows and doors, shower stalls and bathtubs, etc.
    CIRCUIT BREAKER:
    The safety valves for electrical systems. It interrupts an electric circuit when an unusual condition arises such as lightning and malfunctioning appliances. Unlike a fuse, it can be reset.
    CLASS B DOOR:
    A fire resistant rating applied by the Underwriters Laboratories Classification for a door having a 1 to 1 1/2­hour rating.
    CPVC:
    Plastic water piping.
    CRAWL SPACE:
    Shallow space between the underside of the first floor of a house and the ground.
    CUTOFF VALVES:
    Valves used to shut water off, generally located under sinks or behind bathtub and shower access panels. They cutoff hot and/or cold water at the source without cutting all water off throughout the house.

    D

    DAMPER:
    An air valve that regulates the flow of air inside the flue of a furnace or fireplace.
    DISPOSER:
    A device that grinds food sufficiently to enter drains for disposal without clogging.
    DORMER:
    A converted attic with windows projecting through a sloping roof.
    DOUBLE­HUNG WINDOW:
    A window with sashes that slide vertically and allow opening from the top and bottom.
    DRYWALL:
    A gypsum board material used for walls or ceilings.
    DUCTWORK:
    A system of distribution channels used to transmit heated or cooled air from a central system (HVAC) throughout a home.

    E

    EAVES:
    The section of the roof that overhangs the walls of a house.
    EXHAUST FAN:
    Extracts air or excess heat from the interior of a home.

    F

    FLASHING:
    Sheet metal used at wall and roof junctions and around chimneys to prevent water entry.
    FLUE:
    An enclosed chamber in a fireplace that directs flames, smoke and other gases to the outside air.
    FOOTINGS:
    Concrete set in the soil (foundation bed) that support the foundation of the house.
    FORCED-AIR FURNACE:
    A unit that transfers heat from fuel and circulates heat throughout the ducts of a house.
    FOUNDATION:
    The part of the structure upon which all other construction is built.
    FUSE BOX:
    A metal box that contains the fuses that regulate electric current in a house.

    G

    GROUND­FAULT INTERRUPTER (GFI):
    A safety device that interrupts surges of electricity in appliances and other electrical components found in a home.
    GUTTER/DOWNSPOUT:
    Channel of various materials including plastic and copper supported at the eaves to direct water away from the foundation of a home through downspouts.

    H

    HEARTH:
    The fireproof surface of a fireplace, usually 18 inches wide.
    HEAT EXCHANGER:
    A device used to transfer heat in a furnace.
    HEAT PUMP:
    A reverse cycle refrigeration unit that both heats and cools.
    HOT WATER HEATING SYSTEM:
    This system heats water to boiling in a water heater, and a circulator pumps it through a system of pipes.
    HVAC:
    Heating, ventilating and air conditioning system.

    I

    INSULATION:
    Material used to resist the loss of heat energy. Materials such as fiber glass, mineral wool, cellulose and foam are placed in the walls, ceilings, basements and crawl spaces. Insulation may be blown or installed in batt sections.

    J

    JOISTS:
    Horizontal timbers, beams or bars supporting a floor.

    L

    LATHING:
    Strips of wood or other material used as a base for the installation of plaster.
    LEAD:
    A material used in pipes and paint of many older homes. We now know that lead is hazardous to health. The local environmental protection agency should be consulted for guidelines on handling, removal and applicable laws.

    M

    MASONRY:
    Construction using materials such as tile, brick, cement, stone or similar materials.
    MEMBER:
    Wood or steel elements that make up the framing and foundation of a structure such as 2 X 4 strips of lumber cut to various lengths.
    MORTAR:
    A bonding material used in the construction of brick or stone structures.
    MOULDING:
    Strips of wood or the material used to cover joints between floors and walls, and walls and ceilings.

    P

    PARAPET WALL:
    A low wall or railing along the edge of a roof, balcony, bridge or terrace constructed for protection, to control water resulting from rain or artificial flooding or to insulate against the sun's rays.
    PARQUET FLOORS:
    A floor that is laid in rectangular or square patterns often made of prefinished wood or wood veneer squares.
    POINTING UP:
    The removal of deteriorated mortar between bricks and replacement with new mortar.
    POLYBUTYLENE:
    Water piping used for interior piping and the main waterline to the street. Problems with this pipe have curtailed its use.
    PROFESSIONAL INSPECTION:
    An inspection performed by a specially trained inspector to provide a comprehensive report on the condition of a house. This report is usually written and is often used in home sale negotiations.

    R

    R­VALUE:
    A measurement of the ability of insulation to slow the transfer of heat or cold. The higher the R­value, the greater the insulation power.
    RADIANT HEATING SYSTEM:
    An electrical heating system that distributes heat through cables installed usually in baseboard panels.
    RADON:
    A colorless, odorless gas that is emitted from soils, rocks and water as a result of radioactive decay in certain areas of the country. Radon is known to cause cancer. Homes should be tested for radon. The local environmental agency should be consulted on its handling, removal and any applicable laws.
    RAFTER:
    The structural member or beam that supports the roof. It spans from the exterior wall to the ridge board of the peak of the roof.
    REGISTERS:
    Help to regulate the flow of air.
    RETAINING WALL:
    A vertical structure used to restrict the movement of soil or water.

    S

    SASH:
    Framework that holds the glass in a window or a door.
    SETTLING:
    The lowering of elevation of a house or pavement due to weight or shrinkage.
    SHINGLE:
    Sheets of waterproof material used to cover the roofs of homes and other surfaces.
    SIDING:
    Finish material such as wood, vinyl and aluminum used on outside walls.
    SILL:
    The lowest piece upon which a window or exterior door rests, usually slanted downward slightly to provide for rain water runoff.
    SLAB:
    A concrete foundation or floor of a home. Houses built on slab usually do not have basements.
    SOFFIT:
    The underside part of a roof that extends beyond the outside walls of a structure.
    SOLAR HEAT:
    Heat created from the gathering of solar energy from the sun. It can be passive or active. A positive system takes advantage of winter sunlight through windows on the south side of a home. An active system heats through the collection of solar energy through solar collectors.
    SUMP PUMP:
    An electric pump, usually installed in the basement to prevent water from entering the basement area. It empties water from a "well or pit" where it is collected and pumps it to the outside of a home.

    T

    THERMOSTAT:
    Helps to control temperatures within the home. Thermostats automatically turn heating or air conditioning on or off as necessary to maintain a desired temperature.
    THRESHOLD:
    A strip of metal, wood, marble or other material placed at the base of a door.

    U

    UREA FORMALDEHYDE FOAM INSULATION:
    A type of foamed­in-place insulation that releases formaldehyde gas. It was banned by the Consumer Public Safety Commission in 1982 from use in residences and schools. Holding that the risks had not been proven, a Federal Court lifted the ban in 1983. The local consumer and/or environmental protection agency should be consulted for additional information on this type of insulation.

    W

    WEATHER -STRIPPING:
    Made of various materials used to reduce the escape of heat or air conditioning from a home. It is usually installed around windows and doors.
    WINDOW WELL:
    The open subsurface space that provides light through a basement window.

    Z

    ZONE:
    A system that allows different temperatures in various parts of a structure.

    Bibliography for Glossary

    Appraisal Institute, The Dictionary of Real Estate Appraisal, Chicago, Illinois The Appraisal Institute, 1993.

    Boyce, Byrl N., ed. and comp., Real Estate Appraisal Terminology, Revised Edition, Society of Real Estate Appraisers, Ballinger Publishing Company, Cambridge, Massachusetts, 1984.

    Friedman, Jack P., Jack C. Harris, J. Bruce Linderman, Dictionary of Real Estate Terms, 2nd Ed., Barron Educational Series, Inc., Hauppauge, New York, 1987.

    Home Ownership Partners, Maintenance and Educational Manual, Home Ownership Partners, Louisville, Kentucky.

    R.S. Means, Inc. Means Illustrated Construction Dictionary, New Unabr. Ed., R.S. Means, Inc., Kingston, Massachusetts, 1991.

     

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